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Juun.J – MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Designer: Jung Wook Jun Silhouette: urban and sportswear with a military inspiration as the central theme. The designer works on looser volumes, with trousers that double up, overlap and hooded sweaters play on lacing along the arms. Focus on: the mesh trousers with multiple pockets, technical fabrics and blouson parkas in parachute fabric attached to hoodies + ultra-long t-shirt worn over trousers that fall on big rangers. Colours: Palette dominated by khaki, black, navy blue and white. Note: the chain [...]

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Maison Margiela – MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Designer: A wardrobe designed by the studio, with a welcoming nod to John Galliano who will take over the reins more and more from 2017. Silhouette: loose, a play on asymmetry and snap button details for the silk shirts printed with fox and countryside patterns. Focus on: the bottom of open trousers, the deconstructed shoulder of a shirt, the sartorial spirit for suits with visible couture points to reinforce an artisanal work. + On a very flattering playsuit in knit! [...]

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Andrea Crews – MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Designer: Maroussia Rebecq Inspiration: “Work in progress” … and the constantly evolving Andrea Crews team + a historical reference to the industrial revolution and to the workers with work uniform Focus on: the protection uniform in orange fabric used as a jacket and urban jumpsuit, recycled jeans and reworked with inside-out couture and frayed edges + The waterproof printed with cut posters Note: the ‘work’ sweater & cap “on strike” Interview from Maroussia Rebecq

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Dries Van Noten – MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Designer: Dries Van Noten Inspiration: Belgian designer also starts to question himself with regards to the many changes in fashion and the world today. It comes down to what he likes to do (research textures, patchwork of fabrics, craft, etc.) while looking into the future Silhouette: Loose, slender, elegant, sportswear… the new Dries man is a chic, urban adventurer. He even wears loose trousers gathered at the waist with a knit tank top, dares a double breasted jacket with Bermuda [...]

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Yohji Yamamoto- MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Designer: Yohji Yamamoto Inspiration: The new “urban pirates,” with suits and fluid ensembles, relaxed, daring overlays. Focus on: the humour of the Japanese designer who for several seasons uses his own drawings and sketches printed on clothing, just like his self-portrait and his signature appearing on the backs of coats + Colours: different shades of blue, green, black + white and grey for the summer season Note: the fluidity of materials and the casual spirit desired even for a trouser [...]

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Issey Miyake – MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Designer: Yusuke Takahashi Location: At the heart of the Pierre and Marie Curie University, Paris Inspiration: the evolution of the Issey Miyake man for the designer who has just celebrated 3 years as artistic director. + Always travel with a spiritual destination this time to Benares in India + The live performance of the Japanese group Kikagaku Moyo Silhouette: white dominates first and foremost, the desire for comfort, lightness, with harem style trousers and shirts – loose tunics. The pleat [...]

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Valentino – MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Designers: Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri Silhouette: refined and urban with a lot of work on the camouflage pattern; total look, gradient and in small touches. The basics of the male wardrobe are reinterpreted in a chic military spirit -parka, overcoat, suit, trench coat, jacket… Focus on: the fawn pattern posing on the shoulders of a sweater or a jacket. The teddy is worn tucked in the trousers + leather jumpsuit for a luxury “workwear” silhouette and a belt [...]

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Walter Van Beirendonck- MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Designer: Walter van Beirendonck Inspiration: The inscription “Brutal Beauty” appears on T-shirts. Walter wanted a simpler, purer, more romantic collection Silhouette: the trouser suit with impeccable finishes is showcased – monochrome, belted or with graphic openings and fly away ribbons Focus on: The sculpted tops and jackets embroidered with pearls forming flowers. The designer always asks artists to help him transform his clothes into works of art Note: The always so original and fun jewellery and accessories, just like the [...]

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Rick Owens – MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Designer: Rick Owens Inspiration: after the last collection entitled “Mastodon” which dealt with extinction, this time Rick leads us to an evolution theme with “Walrus” (the elephant seal) Silhouette: softer, purer. A question of volumes with ultra short jackets and loose tunics and trousers + A play on draping & ties Focus on: The touches of vibrant colours around yellow, orange, burgundy Focus on: the Rick Owens tuxedo with a sublime jacket worn over a loose jumpsuit Interview from Rick [...]

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Louis Vuitton – MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Inspiration: Africa (where Kim spent part of his childhood + Louis Vuitton supports UNICEF with the program # makeapromise ), London & its rebellious punk side and of course the French savoir-faire Silhouette: revisited suit with zips on the legs, jackets and trench coats in crocodile and ostrich leather, prints of wild animals, Sahara reinterpreted Focus on: the tartan which mixes with Masai checks + Shirt & trench in transparency + Prints of wild animals mixing with the LV logo [...]

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Y/Project – MENSWEAR collection Spring/Summer 2017 in Paris

Designer: Glenn Martens Inspiration: Paris & le bateau mouche, a summery collection with a new sophistication, adjustable-reversible clothes Silhouette: tuxedo and suit with “Y” cuff links, loose trousers, top embroidered with flowers Focus on: high waisted jeans that also can be worn low waisted with a V closure + The powdery tones + Sweaters woven with knots Note: the cape sleeved pleated sweater & pleated jogging bottoms For the evening: the shirt in apricot or silvery sparkled silk Interview from [...]

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Facetasm – MENSWEAR collection spring/summer 2017 in Paris

Designer: Hiromichi Ochiai Inspiration: The male codes reinvented with winks to work uniforms; military, sportswear, masculine tailoring. The black and white checkerboard becomes a leitmotif. Silhouette: Relaxed, fluid and rather loose. A mix of fabrics on one same piece and details of openings and ties finishing a coat. Focus on: jogging bottoms split on the side, the shirt that ends in coloured elastic bands. + The t-shirt printed with small black & white checks, with the back all in feathers [...]

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